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Saltwater Fish and Nano Reef Basics

These databases are intended for marine aquarium fish (reef base and Nano) and not a marine reef aquarium advanced. A good aquarium maintenance building and salt water can be relatively easy to maintain, in fact, sometimes easier some freshwater fish like the disc.
These facts and opinions are based on my experience to maintain and preserve the marine fish professionals (and coral) aquariums more than 27 years with one of the largest aquarium maintenance companies in Los Angeles, California.

Nano Reef:
Nano reefs during Much of this basic information is applicable. I still recommend a UV sterilizer if it can be equipped with nano reef (a small internal filter as Via Aqua 305 inner filter "attached to a compact UV works well)
* Launch of the rock is a must.
* A fine # 00 sand with half "layer sand, No. 3 at the top works best in my opinion, for cleaning and denitrification.
Water changes * In addition, regular monitoring of water parameters are a must (do not forget to visit the alkaline reserve, the same as KH FW). Setting the water is moving faster in a nano aquarium.
* Two power compact and light changes every six months and cleaned regularly both. That should be a day or two actinic and 50/50.

[1] filter, good filtration is a must for a successful marine aquarium. There are many different filters available as well.

Box filters are good for capacity, but may become clear nitrate plant is not very regularly. Fluval not recommend due to poor design of the wheel. By Aqua. Eheim, Jebo and Magnum are what I recommend.

Filters Wet / Dry is good, but are generally poor mechanical filters. Bio ball means they also must be rinsed with regularly in chlorinated water to prevent accumulation of organic matter, nitrates increases.

Drain systems with live rock, plants, and sponge filters work well. Live rock is ideal for aerobic filtration (ammonia and nitrite removal) and anaerobic filtration (nitrate removal). Live plants and green algae are good for fixing nitrogen and phosphate. The sponge filter is easy to clean filter and aerobic bio-mechanical filter.

Like stones live, I recommend its use. Make sure you are cured, many stores sell the right of the rock after he comes to them, and do not cure the live rock. Live Rock arrives the store wrapped in newspaper and all dead, which takes six weeks to heal completely live rock. Fully cured live rock has the advantage contain aerobic and anaerobic bacteria then convert nitrate to nitrogen that is released into the atmosphere without danger. Curing Live rock also contains many "creatures" Many are interesting and beneficial. You can also create their own stone with calcium carbonate skeletons of corals or dead, healed by their inclusion in the rock-healthy a couple of months in a healthy aquarium (UPS reefs are actually the best for this). It is important to use highly porous rocks suitable for the benefits of living stones

Hang on filters again are very limited, but can also be used, especially when combined with other bio filters. Internal filters are also limited, but they are good when combined with others.

Ecosystem mud filtration is effective in removing nitrate (due to large colonies of anaerobic bacteria), which are much easier to use than a skimmer, in my opinion (which I believe are best-selling aquarium).
Unfortunately, there are many stores to promote these systems as the end of all filtration, and are not. This is a good part of a system, but should not be the only part. Good mechanical, biofiltration, filtration and, in particular, germicides are also important.

More on the nitrate removal filter;
(A) As mentioned above, the filter mud can be very useful at removing nitrates, which can make a filter with a simple PLATE sump or aquarium. (With the hob, you must place the media communication in fine nylon mesh bags or filter to prevent damages to the wheel, also keep the bags out of the zone of heavy flow filter). [1] First place using a 2 cm layer of # 3 gravel on top. [2] After 5 cm of sand # 00. [3] Then you can make your own top mulm anaerobic soil, rinse well in the topsoil solution of bleach to 10 / 1, then rinse again until clean (you can add a de-chlorination to remove the chlorine). This at the bottom of the sump in a layer about 2 cm thick.
(B) In addition, as mentioned above, many of cured live rock is very useful for the removal of nitrates
(C) plants and green algae (Caulerpa algae as) in the aquarium or shelter.
(D) Max Pre-filters as ATIS "Filter" entry in the filter can be washed easily and remove organic matter before it can go through the cycle nitrogen.
Spoilers (E)
Lighting Metal (F) halide. I know this seems off topic, but I noticed the metal halide lighting with nitrate levels, even when other filters are poor. I have no evidence, but I think that the redox potential (350 mV) argues that the light has much to do with that.

Redundancy filter also is important, as the filters / pumps can fail. Additional filters also increase the biological and mechanical filtration. A combination would be a sponge economic, internal filter, and a block in the back (power filter).

For more information about filters, see the following website: target = "_blank"> "Aquarium filtration"

[2] a daylight lamp 10,000 K is a good start, the better bulb one day 50/50 / 420nm Actinic, or better yet, would be one of each.

[3] test kits, a kit ammonium nitrite, nitrate, pH, KH and evidence (alkalinity) are all important.

[4] The water chemistry; Start with a sea salt and mix well with a density of 1019-1021 for fish.
Add trace elements and buffer tank. Seachem makes a great product called Coral Calcium keeps KH, added calcium complex polygluconate bioavailable. Many of the available products do not contain calcium and magnesium (as Kalkwasser), and both are required for all chemistry and healthy fish. Note that, unlike of freshwater fish absorb the water around, the sea water fish constantly drink, which affects the body's internal chemistry of the surrounding water.
Keep ammonia and nitrite 0, pH 8.2 to 8.4, KH 200 ppm, nitrates below 20 ppm. Change the water regularly with a vacuum gravel, especially in the areas of accumulation waste, which will help keep nitrates low.

[5] The UV sterilization, UV sterilizers are in my opinion, is not essential but are very important. UV sterilizers help prevent disease and also help maintain good redox (oxidation properties of water). The potential Redox is often overlooked by many aquarists both SW and FW. For more information, see my article on "target =" _blank "> Aquarium UV Sterilization and how it works "

[6] Fish and adequate food, not in public a marine aquarium. The amount of fish depends on the area and type of fish aquarium. My article "Fundamentals of Aquarius" meets matter. Feeding marine fish with the type of food they naturally eat in nature. As water-based HBH Marine Flake food or Spirulina 20 flake fish foods are good generic pins, angels, clown fish, ect. (The Angels also have a sponge in your diet).

This is a staple food for much more information, see the main article, with more resources, images and information Marino: "AQUARIUM BASICS of saltwater fish and nano-reef
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About the Author

By Carl Strohmeyer

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